I asked Mike to give you an account of our most recent trip to New Orleans. Here’s Mike Knezovich:
It’s Fat Tuesday, and only a week ago, we were flying home from New Orleans. It feels like it’s been a long time already.
But I do remember…
…catching three or four pre-Mardi Gras parades without even trying. And catching a whole lot of beads.
…a breakfast dish at Lüke restaurant called “eggs in a jar.” Two perfectly poached eggs, floating inside a jar on bernaise, with a fried softshell crab for a lid. Whoa.
…chandeliers and chandeliers and chandeliers and tapestries and extravagant crown molding and…chandeliers at our grand old hotel, Le Pavillon. And the hotel bartender, a German-born woman who landed in New Orleans decades ago and has been there since. And the hotel piano player, resplendent in a purple suit, who sang a lot like Nat King Cole.
…multiply-pierced and tattooed young people playing old-time traditional jazz on the street. Superbly.
…a great band at the Spotted Cat that we enjoyed for the price of a one-drink minimum.
…leaving the Spotted Cat, crossing Frenchmen Street to see John Boutte (Down in the Treme´, just me and my baby…) at DBA.
…Riding the streetcar to the Latter Library, where Beth and Whit held court in front of a terrifyingly energetic group of pre-schoolers.
…dinner at Upperline. Go there.
…gumbo at Herbsaint. Go there.
…a brass band, on our last night, playing just off Canal. They weren’t quite Rebirth Brass band, but they might be soon.
…walking. And walking. And walking. Just enough, the scale tells me, to have balanced off the caloric intake.
…dinner with our friends Seth and Bess, who moved to New Orleans from our Chicago neighborhood almost two years ago now. They are a wonderful young couple, who — it’s somewhat bittersweet to say — are plainly as happy as clams in New Orleans, so much so that it’s hard to imagine them back in Chicago.
So, how was New Orleans?
Sublime.
And I can say, having been there countless times, that while we always leave New Orleans, New Orleans never leaves us.
mouth watering…thanks for a great virtual start to a rainy fat tuesday in Chicago. see you both real soon!
OOh, am I jealous! We love New Orleans–we’ve adopted it as “our” place since Tom arranged for us to take the train (“The City of New Orleans”) and visit for our 25th anniversary a few years ago…. (We’ve gone back since, always on the train, leaving from Champaign.) Thank you for this lovely post!
Thanks Lauren — we took The City of New Orleans once while we still lived in Champaign. On the way back we brought a muffaletta sandwich for the trip home. Our little compartment probably still smells like olive salad.
I know what it means……
Mike, I loved your descriptions of NOLA. My husband and I will be there in April to celebrate our 30th anniversary, our first time since Katrina tried to wash it away. I hope to check out a couple of the restaurants you mentioned. Isn’t it great how the walking and more walking balances out the fabulous food? I always check out the voodoo shop with its creepy decor and magical powders. Thanks for “guest blogging” about your trip. For those of you who’ve never been there, NOLA is a great city for a long weekend with your favorite person!
Kim, thanks for reading. We’ve been back a few times since the storm and it’s going strong — though the hardest-hit areas like the Ninth Ward are still pretty desolate (though improving slowly). Uptown/Magazine Street areas are going stronger than ever. If you like music be sure to get to Frenchmen Street/Faubourg Marigny, just off the Quarter. One place after another to see live music.
Mike and Beth,
don´t know what´s more delishious, the language or the tales of New Orleans, not to mention the delicacies……. time to go back. Thanks for the inspiration,
Annelore Chapin
Yes, Annelore, time to go back. Can we come with you?!
Argghhhh….I wanna go back!!!!!
Me, too.
Never been there, but you have painted a wonderful picture Mike.
After years of “painting pictures” for me, Mike has become an expert, and it sure shows in his writing, doesn’t it? Ray, knowing your love for (and proficiency in) photography you really should consider a trip to New Orleans, so much to photograph there. And in re: Lauren’s comment above, it is oh so easy to get there by train from Chicago. As Mike says in this blog post: go there.
“terrifyingly energetic” love it
Yes, as I said in my comment to Ray above, that Mike sure has a way with words.
Indeed you both have a way with words and sounds like sharing and connecting. We haven’t been to New Orleans … someday I hope. Our son helped after Katrina.
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